Things to know about installing a Live-Wall Sub.
Use our backbox
No question — you need to use the LWSub BOX with the sub. Subwoofers create tremendous pressure behind the driver (in the wall) and this pressure needs to be controlled. The LWSub BOX maintains a airtight seal, protecting the speaker, and efficiently pushing as much sound into the room as practical.
We often get asked if a carpenter can build a custom box for the Sub. And while we discourage this, in critical cases where the LWSub BOX can not fit, we recommend purchasing the LWSub BOX, and modifying the height or depth of the box while retaining the mounting system as is. Any modifications must retain — at a minimum — the original internal air volume of the box, or the subwoofer will not operate properly.
Check for air leaks before mudding
Proper gasketing of the speaker is essential for good performance and trouble-free use. We can't stress this enough: test the subwoofer after it's been installed but prior to taping, mud or spackle.
Listen for air leaks. Now is the time to fix any problems.
Use a vinyl admix
Here's a link for a vinyl admixture available on the West Coast you add to your mud. It increases flexibility of the mud and ensures no cracking over time. Here's an East Coast product.
Use the right amplifier
You will need a 500w amplifier with a low pass filter. Set the crossover point to 100 Hz or below, allowing only the bass signal to pass to the subwoofer. 500w is required to get the stated performance of the sub. Here's an economical amplifier from Dayton that works well.
Put damping material on metal studs
If you're mounting the Live-Wall sub into metal studs, take the time to secure the studs and add damping material like Dynamat to quell errant vibrations. Nothing is more annoying than vibrations coming from metal studs, ducting, or other loose building materials. Remember: the sub produces a lot of air pressure in the room and in the backbox. Loose building materials will rattle if they're not secured.